Exploring the Enduring Pub Culture of St Albans: A Glimpse into Britain's Changing Hospitality Scene
As the clock ticks towards midnight on New Year's Eve, many find themselves reflecting on the past year and the possibilities that 2026 may bring. But amidst the festivities, a deeper question looms: what will we prioritize in the coming year? In the UK, the hospitality industry faces a unique challenge, with rising costs of living, changing drinking habits among younger generations, and the annual Jools' Hootenanny all taking their toll.
In this edition of the Wednesday briefing, we embark on a journey to St Albans, accompanied by my colleague Sammy Gecsoyler from The Guardian. We meet curator David Thorold from the St Albans Museum, who is curating an exhibition on the city's pubs and inns, and we chat with landlords Sean Hughes and David Worcester about the industry's current state. Of course, being a seasoned journalist, I indulged in a few drinks along the way.
The city of St Albans has a rich history of pubs and inns, with an incredible 92 establishments packed into a one-kilometre radius in 1884. This density is akin to a festival map rather than a typical city centre. Thorold humorously remarks that any old building in St Albans has likely been, is, or will be a pub at some point.
So, what led to the development of so many drinking establishments in St Albans? Thorold explains that the city's proximity to London has always been a defining factor. Being a day's ride from the capital meant a high demand for inns and stabling for the coaching industry. Additionally, a political will to encourage beer consumption over gin in the early 19th century played a significant role. The Beerhouse Act of 1830 allowed anyone to set up a beerhouse, leading to an explosion of pubs. St Albans saw a remarkable transformation from around 40 pubs in 1840 to approximately 90 in 1880, thanks to this act.
The exhibition, originally planned to run until March, has already been extended to coincide with the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra) gathering in April. One unique highlight is a set of beer pumps that play audio stories when pulled.
St Albans is bucking the national trend in several ways. The city's pubs are still thriving, with about a third of the 92 establishments from the 1880s still in operation. One such pub is The Boot, located opposite the famous Clock Tower, the only surviving medieval town belfry in England. We met landlord Sean Hughes, who shared his unique perspective.
Hughes believes that the city's pubs survive because people are protective of their local establishments and want to be proud of them. There's also an active 'Save St Albans Pubs' campaign, emphasizing the slogan 'a pub is for life, not just for Christmas'. The publicans in St Albans have formed a strong mutual support network, which has been particularly beneficial during the challenging times of the pandemic.
Sammy, a young adult, provides insight into the changing drinking habits of younger generations. The impact of the pandemic on mental health and the appeal of public spaces for drinking have influenced a shift in drinking culture. However, there's a resurgence of alcohol consumption among the young, marked by a return to fun and hedonism, as evidenced by the popularity of BuzzBallzs, premixed cocktails in ball-shaped cans.
The hospitality industry faces significant pressures in 2025, with taxation being a major concern. Hughes highlights that the UK has one of the highest tax rates for the industry in Europe, and the duty on beer and wine is significantly higher than in neighbouring countries. When a pub closes, it results in a substantial loss for both the community and the government. Sammy adds that the high costs of drinks in pubs are deterring young patrons.
Despite the challenges, pubs remain essential social hubs in St Albans, as owner David Worcester at the Lower Red Lion emphasizes. Pubs bring people together who might not meet elsewhere, fostering a sense of community.
As our pub crawl comes to an end at The Peahen, it becomes evident that the era of heavy lunchtime drinking is a thing of the past. The party has evolved, with everyone opting for soft drinks, non-alcoholic options, or water. Sammy humorously notes my slight sway as I bid farewell to the pub and head towards the station.
While I'm not on the live blogging rota for New Year's Eve, the temptation to blog from a cozy corner of a lively pub in St Albans remains. Whatever your plans for the evening, may you have a happy New Year's Eve and remember to drink responsibly. See you in 2026!
